Always Hungry NY - Thought For Food

Featured Cocktail: The Wonky Moskin

2010-09-02T14:14:00Z

The Wonky Moskin, a cocktail at Bar Pleiades.

Frank Bruni isn’t the only Times reporter with a cocktail named for him. His colleague at the Dining Section, Julia Moskin, was the inspiration for a drink at Bar Pleiades. And unlike the BruniBerry, The Wonky Moskin wasn’t a DIY affair, but one created by bartender, Cameron Bogue.

In a Dining Brief in January that reviewed Bar Pleiades with Ardesia Wine Bar, Julia Moskin wrote of Daniel Boulud’s new haunt in the Surrey Hotel:

“The potato chips (free, but doled out sparingly) are brushed with house-blend curry powder, and the twist of lemon peel in your martini ($16) is a thick, smooth, perfect rectangle. Details like these provide an illusion of inventiveness. The reality is a systematic coddling. Example: the wordy list of Wonka-like cocktails, created by the head bartender, Cameron Bogue.”

“She gave us a good review,” Cameron said with a smile that turned mischievous, “But she said I used Willy Wonka-like ingredients and that I was unnecessarily wordy. So I set out to make a cocktail that used Willy Wonka-like ingredients and was very wordy.”

The Wonky Moskin
Pink Peppercorn and Valencia infused Gin, Lemon, Egg Whites, Grenache Syrup, Lemongrass Distillate

“Even if you want to make the most creative drink in the world there’s some kind of template behind it,” Cameron explained. “What I wanted to do was to take a French haute cuisine approach to this cocktail.”

At its most basic, The Wonky Moskin is a Gin Sour, which is a mixed cocktail said to predate Prohibition. This specific rendition Cameron called an egg sour. The traditional ingredients are simple: gin, lemon juice, sugar, orange slice, maraschino cherry, and an egg white. But Cameron made a concerted effort to pay great attention and complicate each element in his homage.

The gin is London Beefeater, but the first complication was to infuse it with Valencia orange peels and pink peppercorns for seven days. The lemon juice and egg white stayed simple, but then came the second twist: the sugar. “I made a wine syrup out of grenache because, well, because it was more wordy,” Cameron said. Making the syrup involved reducing it by half, then adding equal parts sugar.

Then there was the addition of lemongrass distillate. “That was just to make it confusing,” Cameron said laughing, “It needed more words.” But making the distillate is a timely process that’s no laughing matter. It takes seven to ten pounds and about five hours to make a one-liter bottle (a process you can read about in How To: Lemongrass Distillate).

All told, it takes about seven hours every two weeks to make the ingredients for the cocktail. The result? A slender, tasty beverage that has a fruity tang, but isn’t overly sweet. And Cameron noted, it has been a success, “It’s one of our best-selling drinks. We make about 128 of these every two weeks.”

So what does the reporter think of having a cocktail named after her, one that the bartender swears was invented in good fun? “Tell her she has to come in and sit at the bar and try some of our new cocktails.” And will she be taking him up on the offer anytime soon? We reached out to the reporter to find out:

“Mr. Bogue is so discreet in his tribute that I didn’t even know about The Wonky Moskin until last week. I haven’t had a chance to try it. But, I am a lover of gin and have a soft spot for pink peppercorns so I’m looking forward to it.”

Cameron Bogue’s Recipe for The Wonky Moskin
2 oz infused Beefeater Gin
¾ oz Lemon Juice
½ oz Red Wine Syrup
¼ oz Lemongrass Distillate
1 egg white
Shake hard and strain up

How To: Bar Pleiades’ Lemongrass Distillate

2010-09-02T14:01:00Z

The homemade distillation apparatus created by Bar Pleiades’ head bartender, Cameron Bogue.

A boiling flask filled with reddish bubbling liquid, a biomass flask filled with stalks and steam, a slow trickle of clear liquid, it may at first appear to be the work of a mad scientist. But Bar Pleiades’ head bartender, Cameron Bogue, explains that this homemade apparatus is really just a “simple steam distillation,” a setup he uses to create the various distillates that bring extra aroma to some cocktails at Daniel Boulud’s Bar Pleiades at The Surrey Hotel on the Upper East Side.

Cameron perfected his process of creating various distillates during the course of several years. One of his references was Suzanne Catty’s Hydrosols: The Next Aromatherapy. “But it doesn’t tell you so much how to make it,” he explained, “It was a lot of trial and error. I made a lot of bad stuff. When I wanted to do something for the restaurant I had to be really careful.”

Kaffir Lime Leaf worked. So too, black teas. Marigold? Not so much. “Things that were a little bit harder worked better,” he explained. “Things that became soft, you tasted that mush.”

Lemongrass is one of Bogue’s recent successful distillates. It’s a key ingredient in a cocktail he calls “The Wonky Moskin,” which he invented to honor The New York Times’ Dining Section reporter, Julia Moskin. When you get a waft from the bottle, the aroma of the concentrated liquid smells like Fruit Loops. When mixed with The Wonky Moskin’s other ingredients it lends a Fruity Pebbles smell.

Boiling flask.

Cameron starts the process by filling a boiling flask with about two liters of water, “Distilled water, so that it’s devoid of any minerals.”

Biomass flask filled with chopped lemongrass.

Steam rises from the water heated in the boiling flask and into the biomass flask where it cooks the lemongrass (about 5-7 lbs before trimming). Run-off drops back down into the boiling flask, which makes the color of the water rusty. The end result, which will first rise and condense in the tubes above, will be crystal clear.

In the background, a tube connects the biomass flask with the condensing tube (foreground).

“The head of the still hits the condensing tube, which is lined with cold water,” Cameron explained. The steam turns back into liquid near the feed tube, where some essential oil also gathers.

Bogue’s lemongrass distillate drops into a beaker.

The end result, clear lemongrass distillate, is a key ingredient in The Wonky Moskin, one of the most popular cocktails at Bar Pleiades.

Round-Up: August

2010-09-02T12:00:01Z

We ate Kesté‘s Insalata Pizza Sandwich, tasted Po’ boys at Cheeky Sandwiches, and revisited The 5 and Diamond before it lost chef David Santos. There was Balkan food at Djerdan, a Pretzel Burger at Friendly’s, and D’Artagnan’s Mangalitsa Ham. Yup, Always Hungry featured some great food and drink in August. In case you missed any, check out this round-up.

From Smoked Pickled Sausages at Vandaag (left) to Fried Chicken Livers at Seersucker, and RUB BBQ’s Donut Burger, to New York’s hangover dishes, Always Hungry has been all over your New York food radar. Here are August’s top five most popular stories.

1. First Look: Dinner at Vandaag
2. Featured Dish: RUB BBQ’s Donut Burger
3. Featured Brunch: New York’s Hangover Dishes
4. AlwaysStrong: Pretzel Burger and Lobster Roll at Friendly’s
5. Featured Brunch: Seersucker

FEATURED DESSERT Every Tuesday Always Hungry’s weekly focus turns to sweets, keeping you informed about the newest, best, and most interesting desserts around the City. Here’s the August confectionery lineup.

Treats from Blue Smoke Bake Shop
Tabla Cart’s Kulfi Pop
Torta Santiago and Crema Catalana at El Quinto Pino
For the Love of Salted Caramel
Pies ‘N’ Thighs’ Molasses Cookie

FEATURED COCKTAIL Every Thursday Always Hungry’s weekly focus turns to booze. Liquor, beer, wine, you name it, we’re out there drinking so you don’t have…wait, scratch that. We’re out there drinking. Here’s August’s tippling.

The Highlands’ Blackberry Tartan
Mailino Cocktails
Drinks and Snacks at Nuela
Marea’s Stormy Veloce

FEATURED BRUNCH Every Friday Always Hungry’s weekly focus turns to a weekend brunch option. Because brunch doesn’t have to mean a long wait and second class citizen status. Here were August’s weekend morning suggestions.

New York’s Hangover Dishes
Seersucker
6th Street Kitchen
DBGB Kitchen & Bar

ALWAYS HUNGRY’S CALENDAR always keeps you informed about food events taking place around the city and across the country, but don’t forget Monday’s highlights for the week ahead.

ALWAYS HUNGRY ARCHIVES: AUGUST Review August’s complete article archive to catch any of the month’s food and drink posts you may have missed.

AlwaysInformed: August’s Best RUB Burger

2010-09-01T13:15:00Z

The Donut Burger, a special Monday night burger at RUB BBQ (August 2nd).

Those who know, eat RUB BBQ’s special Monday night burger. Those who don’t, rhapsodize about Five Guys. Seriously, don’t take our word for it, as weekly Monday night burger regulars, Jonathan Burr and Andrew “Goose” Gussman will tell you, Scott Smith and Andrew Fischel’s weekly special is more than a shtick. The afternoon announcement is a great what’s-the-special-gonna-be-today moment almost powerful enough to make you think Monday’s closer to Friday than it is. Rather than a weekly update, here’s a month’s roundup of the Monday burgers, including our pick for August’s blue ribbon winner.

Primanti Burger (August 9th).

This homage to the Pittsburgh classic didn’t disappoint. The bread was great (thick, soft slices), the fries were equally impressive (salty, crispy), the coleslaw was tasty, and it was certainly a meal unto itself. But this was the first Monday special where you kind of lost the flavor of the burger a bit.

The New York Bagel Burger with Lox and Cream Cheese (August 16th).

How epic. A bagel burger, with the option for lox? And to paraphrase Winston Zeddemore, “When someone asks you if you want lox on your bagel burger, you say, yes!” The bagel was toasted— there was substantial texture— you had to be prepared to bite down and pull away. Still, it worked because of how very juicy, wet, and messy it was (all in a good way).

The lox just melted into the cream cheese and the burger. Speaking of cream cheese— dill and caper— it worked in the same Butter or Goober Burger kind of way, melting into the meat and softening the bagel. Thin slices of red onion. We’d go with this as the month’s second best burger. It spawned further ideas too. How about a Leo Burger? Slice some of the bagel off so it’s not so thick? Or maybe…a bialy?

Picadilly Burger (August 23rd).

Aged Cheddar and a spicy, green tomato Picadilly relish. A nice return to toppings and away from bread choice. This is was a slice of cheese that you could seriously respect for its thickness. Not your old-school ballgame relish— wet, zesty and flavorful.

Banh Mi Burger (August 30th).

The Banh Mi special was an it-had-to-be-done burger, a dark horse for the title of month’s best. The RUB blend was mixed with shallots, garlic, ground peanuts, fish sauce and coconut milk, topped with housemade Asian BBQ pork, housemade pâté, pickled daikon, carrot and cilantro, and served on a baguette with Asian aioli. This was a ‘tuck burger,’ a sandwich you fold and pin the toppings into.

The patty had great flavor— juicy as always (they really have that down), but the pickle and Asian BBQ pork were the strongest flavors (the last, sweet, soft and salty). The pâté was a bit loafy, but disappeared into the sandwich. A hearty, admirable burger. But the bread type, which seemed to soak up the juices, is an example of how something gets a little lost when they stray from non-traditional buns. But let’s be real folks, finding criticism with the RUB Burgers is like nagging the A student to go for the ‘+.’

But, the pick for RUB’s best burger special for August is the Donut Burger, without a doubt. One lament? No bacon. We’ll have to seek out a true Luther Burger in all its glory. See you next Monday.

Featured Dessert: Treats from Blue Smoke Bake Shop

2010-08-31T14:18:00Z

Left, Blue Smoke Bakery Shop’s Chocolate Layer Cake. Right: Banana Cream Pie and Key Lime Pie.

It may not be fair to new cupcake shops opening nationally in the wake of the New York trend, say Georgetown Cupcake, or Crave Cupcakes in Houston, but after several years it’s difficult to get excited about dry cake and buttercream. Still, when new shops open there’s the matter of due diligence. Case in point, Blue Smoke Bake Shop, a little booth by the entrance to Danny Meyer’s Flatiron barbeque joint.

But, even the most devout cupcake-trend hater has to give it up to pastry chef Jenn Giblin. The display may not be as big as the one at the other Flatiron BBQ joint, Hill Country, and the staple flavors aren’t as creative, but all in all, they may be better— at least the double chocolate. And there’s other good stuff. As Grub Street reported, the Bake Shop sells cookies, breads, cakes and pies from 11:30am till 9pm.

Clockwise from top: Very Vanilla, Red Velvet, and Double Chocolate Cupcakes.

A few quick notes, the Cheddar-Black Pepper Biscuits are only available after 3 o’clock, and while there is a cupcake of the month, the Boston Cream, Coconut Cream, and Double Espresso Cupcakes are special order only (two days’ advance notice). Also, of the cakes and pies (Chocolate Layer, Key Lime, Banana Cream, and Bourbon Pecan), you can order the first three by the slice.

August’s cupcake of the month, Red Velvet, is good, with tangy cream cheese frosting. So too the Very Vanilla, sour cream vanilla cake with vanilla buttercream. But the Double Chocolate Cupcake is the best. The cake so embodies the word reviled by long-time pastry chefs, you have to use it, ‘moist.’ The frosting deserves special note. It’s very light and creamy— almost like frosting as crafted still water.

Chocolate Layer cake? Similar to the cupcake. If you liked that, this feels like the same thing, but a whole lot more of it— chocolate cake like an idealized version of the Deluxe Box cake of your childhood— stunning. Banana Cream Pie is more cream than banana with a loose crumble crust. As good as Magnolia Bakery’s banana pudding? No, but pretty damned fine. Key Lime Pie is cool and set, but not in a JELL-O-like way, creamy on the tongue and tart, not too sweet.

Boston Cream Cupcake.

The Boston Cream— worth the pre-order? Yes. It doesn’t dethrone the Double Chocolate, but the cream is fluffy and vanilla bean-flecked, in good proportion with the cake.

Roasted Jalapeño and Salty Peanut Chocolate Bar.

The thin chocolate bar, in its shiny foil, gives you that sensation of golden-ticket excitement. Salt rides in on the coattails of sweetness, and then the heat from the roasted jalapeño just as you’re wondering where the spice is. Maybe they just shouldn’t keep them in the window during the warmer months.

Featured Restaurant: Le Gigot

2010-08-30T14:33:00Z

Gigot d’Agneau aux Flageolet and Crème Brûlée at Le Gigot.

Enter Le Gigot. Içi Paris. The only things missing are the French accordion music and the mimes. Pick one of the 10 tiny bistro tables and you’ve abandoned Cornelia Street for the Left Bank

Homemade Country Paté with toasted Baguettes.

Senegalese-born French classically trained chef, Alioune Ndiaye, has long been making his own charcuterie. A platter of Duck Rillettes, Chicken Liver Paté, Country Paté, Saucisson Sec accompanied by de rigueur Dijon mustard and cornichons and I’m humming La Marseillaise.

Bouillabaise.

Speaking of Marseilles, Le Gigot’s Bouillabaisse is perhaps one of the greatest examples of the dish in New York. The deep saffron colored fish stock is so thick that the salmon, snapper, calamari, mussels, shrimp and scallops that appear to rest on the surface.

Bouillabaise accoutrements.

The thickness only increases as you’re provided with toast to be slathered with rust-colored rouille (saffron, garlic, chili aioli) and covered with grated Gruyère before being turned upside down to soak in the seafood strewn pool. The bouillabaise steals the show but the eponymous butterflied leg of lamb with flageolets is a close second.

End with either the Tarte Tatin, Banane Flambé or Brioche pudding with Crème Anglaise, the latter being the closest you’ll come to “English” all night. C’est la vie.

Featured Brunch: DBGB

2010-08-27T14:01:00Z

Mussels “Poulette” and Pommes Mousseline at DBGB Kitchen & Bar.

When you think DBGB, seafood isn’t the first thing that comes to mind. But, if it’s still not cool enough for Jim’s Matzoh Ball Soup, and you need something lighter than the brunch menu’s burgers, brats, or more traditional French toast and waffle fare, there’s a do-it-yourself seafood brunch combination that’s satisfying. (And filling if you supplement it with the restaurant’s great potatoes.)

Pimm’s Cup.

To pair with your non-traditional DBGB seafood brunch, try the Pimm’s Cup. This rendition is refreshing and crisp— not too sweet. It could even stand to be a tad more bitter.

DBS Smoked Salmon with Crispy Potato Latkes and Sour Cream.

The plating is a little stark, and the portioning will make you glad that you ordered the incredibly smooth pommes mousseline, but this is a nice plate. There’s a rose of thick-cut smoky salmon and a very high ratio of it to everything else on the plate (more capers and onions, please). The crispy-outside, tender inside potatoes taste like they’ve been cooked with bacon grease— that’s a good thing.

Grilled Spicy Calamari with Spiced Chickpeas, Crispy Socca, and Lemon Yogurt Saffron-Tomato Coulis.

Squid for brunch? Why not? This tender calamari really works with the mint-laced herb salad, and there’s textural range from the chickpeas.

What’s your philosophy on mussels? Do you pick out all those tender bits of shellfish and let them sit in the broth at the bottom, or eat them individually, one by one, discarding the shells in the bowl on the side? Either way, enjoying this version with white wine, shallots, scallions, garlic croutons, and herbs, is all about balancing it out with that side of salty fries and smooth mousseline.

Featured Cocktail: The Highlands’ Blackberry Tartan

2010-08-26T14:26:00Z

The Blackberry Tartan at The Highlands.

By now, scotch fiends have found a home in West Village gastropub, The Highlands. There’s a serious selection of malts and scotches for the straight up drinker, and a menu of carefully-crafted cocktails too. In the latter category is the Blackberry Tartan, an ideal summer-switch-to-fall concoction.

It’s late August now, September is creeping in, and you’re in a weird place— you want to hold on to the fruits of summer, but you are primed to dive in to the bounty of the new season. The Blackberry Tartan ($13) solves this dilemma, offering the tart berry in combination with maple syrup, Appleton Estate Rum Reserve, and anCnoc 12 year scotch.

The Tartan is frothy on the top and viscous throughout with real body from the fruit pulp. Maple syrup adds to the cocktail’s steady hint of sweetness—never overwhelming—well-matched against the scotch, which maintains its identity. You finish faster than you expect and think, “I want to try more of what this place has to offer.” Mission accomplished.

Featured Restaurant: ilili

2010-08-25T14:25:00Z

Lamb Chops, seared with Za’atar Salsa Verde and Herb Roasted Tomatoes.

With the impending opening of game-changing, market-restaurant hybrid, Eataly, at the end of this month, a lot of attention has been devoted to the great things being planned by Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich. But the focus on the neighborhood’s dining options reminded us of another Flatiron joint that deserves mention: ilili, Phillippe Massoud’s still-swank Mediterranean venture.

To start, there’s Hommus, of course, and Labne, a tangy strained yogurt— textbook examples of whipped and silky smooth, respectively. Tear a piece of the thin, warm puffed pita and attack unabashedly between sips of the signature Not-So Bloody Martini (or for something more floral, the From Manhattan to Beirut). The Mouhamara, a vibrant, nutty-textured mixture made from sun-dried pepper, walnuts, and pomegranate molasses comes highly recommended. With it you should order the leafy, parsley-heavy burghul Tabbouleh to add to the mix. All together it makes for wonderful grazing.

Bone Marrow with Sour Cherry Tabbouleh, Pita Pillows.

Pita pillows reappear miniaturized with Roasted Bone Marrow. Slit one open and slip in a spoonful of the hot, melting fat— it’s like a do-it-yourself Lebanese take on a soup dumpling. There’s more construct-your-own flavor combinations to be had with the Kibbeh Nayeh Jnubieh: Steak Tartare with Burghul, Cumin, Marjoram, Onion, Mint. A meat patty with a paste-like texture glistens with olive oil— it’s meant to be mixed with grainy pearls of burghul and slices of jalapeño and onion. It’s a unique medley of textures. Also unique are the Veal Sweetbreads, crispy fried and served in lettuce cups with garlic whip and Lebanese pickles. They’re the poppable version you’d want to have on game night.

Chef Massoud also demonstrates a strong command of bold, abrasive flavors. Blackened chunks of chicken liver arrive in a cast-iron dish, not-so-subtly dressed in tart, tangy sauce of lemon, pomegranate molasses, and sumac. The excellent Warm Eggplant shares a similar profile, this time employing tamarind molasses, and adding the sweetness of blistered tomatoes. Still, having these two dishes in one course could easily overwhelm, and in such a case, the nicely seared Lamb Chops with za’atar salsa verde and roasted tomatoes are more simple and straight forward.

For dessert (if you can save room), there’s an important choice to be made. In one corner there’s the uncontested chocolate-lover’s choice: the rich Ilili Candy Bar. In the other, the Ashta, a light, smooth mold of Lebanese clotted cream doused table-side with orange blossom simple syrup.

Featured Dessert: Tabla Cart’s Kulfi Pop

2010-08-24T14:23:01Z

Milk Chocolate and Almond Kulfi Pop from Tabla’s seasonal cart.

Here’s a Flatiron dessert option that not only hits the popsicle trend, but also presents a nearby ice cream alternative for those who have already cycled through Shake Shack’s custard calendar: Tabla cart’s Milk Chocolate and Almond Kulfi Pop.

For those unfamiliar with it, kulfi is a type of flavored, milk-based frozen dessert originally from India. At Tabla’s seasonal cart you can have it sandwiched between chocolate chip cookies ($3), or on a stick as a “pop” ($3) that has been dipped in milk chocolate and covered with slivers of raw almond.

Cross-section of Tabla’s Kulfi Pop.

The pop has that Klondike Bar quality— the thin chocolate shell cracks, and there’s a little crunch from the almonds. The texture of the kulfi is more dense than ice cream (think frozen marzipan), but still creamy, and almost custard-like.

Note also that it doesn’t melt as fast as you might expect. So if you order your Chicken Tikka or Lamb Frankie “spicy,” pick up one of these for a sweet, cooling bite after.

First Look: US Open Eats

2010-08-23T19:00:00Z

From left: Moon ‘n Doggies Shrimp Hot Dog, Char-grilled Ahi Tuna with Pickled Ginger and Mango Salsa, and Prime Rib Sandwich with White Cheddar and Horseradish Cream.

The US Open qualifying starts tomorrow through Friday, August 27th, before the main draw on Sunday. Courtesy of a tasting preview earlier today we have a first look at the food in the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center that will be served through September 12th.

Michael Lockard has returned for a fourth year as the Open’s executive chef. But, several other well-known chefs are participating. Masaharu Morimoto’s sushi will be being served, and the new South Plaza Master Chef Café will feature food by: Tony Mantuano (Spiaggia), Susan Feniger (Street), Carmen Gonzalez, Rick Moonen (RM Seafood), and Jonathan Waxman (Barbuto).

Included for your pre, post, rain delay, and inter-match eating, is a preview of the café and restaurant dishes as well as the menus of for the kiosks in the Food Village. For more food details from the US Open check out the official venue descriptions.

Left, US Open executive chef, Michael Lockard. Right, from top: Louis Armstrong Stadium, chef Tony Mantuano, and the Food Village.

Of the dishes sampled, Rick Moonen’s Shrimp and Tilapia Moon N’ Doggie was the most heralded— Chef Tony Mantuano predicted it as the Open’s big hit. Light, tangy, with a little bite, and varied texture from the chips and slaw— you can see how it wouldn’t sit heavy during a match. But, it was the Seafood Chowder that was most satisfying— definitely the dish to seek out if you’re in rain delay.

Other dishes of note are those being served at the Master Chef Café: Susan Feniger’s Carne Asada, and Yucatan Pork Tacos; Carmen Gonzalez’ Lobster Roll with Key Lime Mayo, and Pulled Pork Sandwich; and Jonathan Waxman’s panini (Roast Chicken, Grilled Hangar Steak, and Heirloom Tomato Caprese).

AlwaysInvestigating: Cheeky Sandwiches

2010-08-23T14:15:00Z

A half shrimp & Half oyster Po’ boy, and “Ben-Yay’s” at Cheeky’s Sandwiches on Orchard Street,

Calvin Trillin used to joke when asked where to find the best po’ boy in New York that you have to go to Queens then take a plane from LaGuardia directly to New Orleans. I agreed until I wandered into Cheeky Sandwiches on Orchard and ordered a half shrimp, half oyster po’ boy, fully dressed, of course.

In Philly, only hoagies or cheesesteaks made with Sarcone’s Bakery bread are the real McCoy. In Miami the only bread worthy of a Cubano is Cuban lard bread. So it is with the bread for Cheeky’s po’ boy. Cheeky gets its bread from John Gendusa Bakery, which, in 1929, created the New Orleans French bread without which po’ boys would be naked rather than fully dressed.

The fried oyster half of the half and half po-boy.

Speaking of dressing, Cheeky slathers on just the right combo of lettuce, tomato, pickle, mayo and hot sauce. The oysters and shrimp are fried to order. The breading clings to the delicate seafood while the airy flaky hero roll turns into breadcrumbs with each bite.

Big Shot Fruit Punch soda.

For a side, try Zapp’s Spicy Cajun Crawtators, potato chips that taste like a crawfish boil, and wash it all down with Big Shot Fruit Punch soda, also imported from NOLA. The “Ben-Yay’s” may not be spelled correctly, and they looked bit like Dunkin’ Donuts Munchkins, but they were warm and oozy. Cheeky’s decor evokes a Cajun swamp shack and has the food to match. At $8.50 a sandwich it might be a little rich for a po’ boy, but think about what you’ll have saved on a flight to Louisiana.

Restaurant: Cheeky Sandwiches
Address: 35 Orchard Street (between Hester and Canal)
Hours: Daily, 8:00am-6:00pm
Hours: Cash Only

AlwaysInformed: Coming up on the Calendar (8/23/10)

2010-08-23T12:03:00Z

Always Hungry’s Calendar keeps you informed about food events taking place around the city and the country. Here’s a list of some of this week’s significant events:

8/25 Enjoy a seafood feast at the Beard House prepared by chef Mike Stollenwerk of Fish in Philadelphia.

8/25 Bid summer farewell with Finger on the Pulse’s last BBQ Blowout featuring food from Frankies Spuntino, and live music.

8/26 Meet the country’s top tennis players while enjoying stellar food from New York chefs at the Taste of Tennis.

8/28-29 Travel to Long Island for the Maritime Museum’s Seafood Festival.

8/29 Head to Brooklyn for Sunday Best’s dinner and dance party.

Click here to view Always Hungry’s full calendar.

Featured Brunch: New York’s Hangover Dishes

2010-08-20T14:06:00Z

Hangover Pasta at Resto.

Hangovers cures are like hiccup cures— everyone has a theory about what works best. If you read the online, ah-hem, literature about what constitutes the best hangover cures you find all kinds of baloney:

Eat bananas. Peanut butter! No, prickly pear juice! Coconut water. Drink coffee. Don’t drink coffee! If you do drink coffee, drink a lot of water! Eat fried foods! But only before, not after. Have a little hair of the dog. Try a Prairie Oyster. Stop, drinking again is the worst thing to do— it causes alcohol dependency. Eat burned toast. No, drink sports drinks! Take Advil. Don’t take Advil! It will explode your liver. Take aspirin. B-6. B-12. Rosiglitazone. No, Berocca. Hey, I heard that American Indians claim that eating six raw almonds before imbibing helps prevent intoxication. Really? My friend said that eating peanut butter beforehand is an African remedy. Exercise. Sex. Sleep. No, don’t sleep!

Sshhh. Don’t scream— makes it worse. Some of these ‘cures’ sounds like torture. Exercise? Burned toast? Not sure about the last time you went on a bender, but likely you weren’t planning enough to eat almonds, or have Rosiglitazone. Recovery is about water, and what works for you.

For many, food is the best cure— something to make you feel better, placebo or not. So, it’s no surprise there are more than 40 dishes on New York brunch menus that include ‘hangover’ in name or description. There are boring ones— juices, egg platters— but intriguing ones too. Given that the last thing you want to do hungover is read gobs of text, here’s a list of interesting hangover brunch dishes.

SOUPS
Jun-Ju “Hangover” Soup, Cho Dang Gol 55 W 35th Street (b/n 5th and 6th Ave)
This restaurant in K-Town serves shredded beef and bean sprouts in a “refreshing beef broth” with salted shrimp sauce, $12.95.

Hangover Soup, Sidecar, 560 5th Ave (b/n 15th & 16th St), Brooklyn
A bowl of spicy chicken broth, tomato, kale, garlic, and poached egg, $8.

BURGERS
Hangover Helper, La Fonda del Sol, 200 Park Ave (b/n 44th & 45th St)
A hamburger with pickled jalapeños, sautéed onions, and mushrooms. This item is no longer on the brunch menu, however this burger can be made upon request, $15.

Mitraittette, Petite Abeille, multiple (E 20th, Hudson, W 17th, and W Broadway)
Literally “submachine gun.” A hangover sandwich served in Belgian friteries and cafés. Said to originate with sausage or sliced meat, it now includes a variety of meats (sausage, burger, steak, frikandel, etc.), some fried. Petite Abeille’s is hamburger, fries, sautéed onions, and ketchup in a baguette, $12.50.

Hangover Helper, Plan B, 626 Vanderbilt Ave (at Prospect Pl), Prospect Heights, Brooklyn
“Our famous inside-out burger stuffed with American cheese, grilled and oozing with flavor,” $8.95. Sounds like a Juicy Lucy, interesting. A buck more gets you a ‘Hair of the Dog Shot.’ Clever.

The Hangover Burger, Stone Street Tavern, 52 Stone St (b/n William & Pearl St)
An Angus beef burger with cheese, bacon, onion, and fried egg, $12.

The Tonic East Hangover Remedy, Tonic East, 411 3rd Ave (at 29th St)
A grilled 10 oz burger with Swiss, two fried eggs, and homemade chili on a Kaiser roll, with fries, $7.95.

MISCELLANY
Belgian Hangover Pasta, Resto, 111 E 29th St (b/n Park & Lexington Ave)
Ham, Gruyère, sunny egg, $14. Rich and creamy, a spin on your classic Carbonara. Pepper adds a subtle bite, but halfway through, the thick, almost pasty sauce starts to sit a little heavy. (Full write-up).

The Hangover, Serendipity 3, 225 E 60th St (b/n 2nd & 3rd Ave)
An omelette with mild chili and your choice of cheese, $11.50.

Hangover Helper, Windsor Cafe, 220 Prospect Park (Windsor & 16th St), Prospect Park, Brooklyn
Apple, lemon, carrot, beet, and ginger juice, $4.50.

B-12 Anti-Hangover Mary, Yerba Buena Perry, 1 Perry St (at Greenwich Ave)
Lotus vodka infused with vitamin B12, tomato juice, Tapatío Hot Sauce, and lemon juice, $8.

Featured Cocktail: Maialino

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From left, Pig and Pepe, and the Farewell to Arms.

Mention cocktails and Maialino in the same breath and chances are conversation is going to lead to the Pig and Pepe. It makes perfect sense— this is, after all, the cocktail made with tequila that has been washed with fat from the restaurant’s signature suckling pig.

Set your fears aside, the Pig and Pepe doesn’t taste like drinking pork. It’s light and tart, like a margarita— best with a bit of the smoky chili powder rim. But this is a bar you want to linger at (if you can angle a seat)— great for people-watching. Finish the Pig ($12) and explore other drinks.

From left, Old Buddy, and the Shakerato.

Bitter cocktails are done exceptionally well. Take the Old Buddy ($13), a blend of bourbon, Punt y Mes, Italian Vermouth, and Campari. The last ingredient makes the strongest impression, but it’s balanced by the citrusy aroma of the orange rind. More interesting is the Shakerato ($13), an espresso-based cocktail with bourbon, Averna, and Italian vermouth. The coffee flavor is bold, with hints of dark chocolate, and dominates over the other ingredients— save this one for brunch.

If the astringency of these is too much, switch back to something more sour and tangy with the Farewell to Arms ($12). It features rum, Campari, Maraschino, grapefruit, and lime. But by then you’ll have caved into ordering the addictive Carciofini Fritti and salumi— you’ll be hard-pressed to leave.